Drum Parts

Attaches to the bottom of the front counter hoop to prevent the bass from slipping. Dual reversible tips.

Bass Drum Beaters

Felt, vintage felt, wood, plastic, 2-way or 4-way beaters available.

Bass Drum Beater Pads / Impact Badges

Attaches to the batter drumhead where the beater hits. Provides extra durability and added attack.

Claw Hooks

Tension rods or T-hook rods are threaded through, and the claw hook attaches to the bass drum hoop. Each manufacture has different style, but sizes are typically standard.

Bass Drum Hoops

Available in wood, plastic or metal. Finishes vary.

Bass Drum Hoop Saver

Attaches to the bass drum hoop where the pedal clamps down to prevent scratching and cracking.

Bass Drum Spurs

Bolted to the shell of the drum, metal spikes and rubber feet keep the drum from "walking." Designs vary by manufacturer.

Tension Rods

Allow the bass drum to be tuned with a drum key.

T-Rods

Similar to tension rods above, but these have T-handles that allow tuning by hand without a key.

Bolt Lube

Ensures consistent tuning tension and long thread life.

Floor Tom Legs

Designs slightly vary by manufacturer.

Hoops

Modern hoops are either die-cast, triple-flanged (pictured), or wood. When replacing, measure diameter and note number of lugs.

Lug Mounting Screws

These mount the lug to the shell from inside the shell. Thread size may vary by manufacturer.

Lugs

These attach to the shell of the drum and accept tension rods, which tune the drum. Design and fit vary by manufacturer.

Mounting Brackets

Designs vary GREATLY by manufacturer. If replacing, purchase the same brand. If brand is unknown, measure mounting screw locations, and examine design. Measure tom bracket as well.

Mounting / Isolation Systems

Many drums come with these today, and virtually any drum is able to be upgraded to these. The concept is to suspend the drum by cradling the rim, instead of using a mounting bracket that is drilled through the shell. Isolation mounts improve sound, resonance and projection.

Rubber Feet / Tube Feet

For floor tom legs. These provide padding and eliminate noises and vibrations from metal legs contacting hard floor.

Swivel Nuts

These fit inside the lug, and are threaded to accept the tension rod. If you strip one out, it is not necessary to replace the entire lug assembly, just replace the swivel nut.

Tension Rods

Tension rods are passed through the hoop and threaded into lug casing to tune the drum.

Tension Rod Washers

Available in nylon or steel. Always use a washer to prevent damage to the hoop or the tension rod, and to ensure accurate tuning.

Butt End Assembly

The butt end retains the snare wire string or strap opposite the strainer. Designs vary by make and model.

Snare Side Hoops

The bottom hoop of a snare drum includes cut-outs to accept the snare wire cord / strap. These, like tom hoops are available in die-cast (pictured), triple-flanged and wood. When replacing, measure the diameter of the drum and count the number of lugs.

Snare Wire

These are what produce the "snappy"sound of a snare drum. The snare wire floats against the bottom drumhead and is heald in place by the strainer and butt end via cord or straps. Snare wire is available in many designs and material to alter sound and response.

Snare Wire String / Strap

These straps or strings attach the snare wires to the strainer and butt end. Available in nylon straps (pictured), kevlar straps, or cord.

Strainer / Throw-Off

The throw-off or strainer holds the snare wire string or strap, and allows the drummer to not only tension the snare wire, but also allows the snare wires to be turned on (pressed against the bottom drumhead) or turned off (releases the snare wire from the drum head) which results in the snare drum sounding like a highly-tensioned, shallow tom tom. Pictured is a high-end Trick GS007 strainer with matching butt end. Many custom snare drum builders and high-end drums feature this model or high-end Dunnett brand strainers.

Bass Drum Pedal Chain / Strap

This is the drive that attaches the pedal board to the sprocket or cam. Most pedals use chains, but some feature straps (pictured) or direct drive linkages.

Bass Drum Pedal Hinge

The hinge attaches the foot board to the base plate. Pictured is DW's famous Delta Ball Bearing Hinge, one of the smoothest hinges on the market.

Bass Drum Pedal Spring

The spring is what causes the pedal to rebound after being depressed.

Bass Drum Pedal Stop

Many pedals feature a toe-stop so the drummer's foot doesn't contact the chain or drive.

Cymbal Felts

Felts should always be used at least under cymbals (preferably on top and under) to allow the cymbal to resonate without damage or metal-to-metal vibrations.

Cymbal Sleeves

The sleeve insulates the cymbal from the metal shaft, preventing metal-on-metal vibrations. Different cymbal stands have different designs; some sleeves include the seat (pictured), others are incorporated into the wingnut (like Tama's design), and some are separate from the seat.

Cymbal Springs

Some drummers prefer the cymbal to be clamped down tight but still want the cymbal to move. These seem to have declined in popularity.

Cymbal Stackers

Stackers mount atop an existing cymbal stand to allow two cymbals to be placed on top of one another.

Cymbal Stand Washers

The washer fits onto the cymbal stand tilter to secure the bottom cymbal felt.

Hi Hat Attachment Clamp (to bass drum hoop)

In double bass drum setups, many drummers prefer to use leg-less hi hat stands, or to fold the legs up in order to place the hi hat pedal close to the bass drum pedal. These clamps attach and secure the hi hat stand to the bass drum hoop.

Hi Hat Clutch

The clutch attaches to the hi hat pull-rod and holds the top hi hat cymbal. This is what essentially connects the top cymbal to the pedal, allowing the hi hat to be opened and closed.

Hi Hat Clutch Felts

These are smaller felts than cymbal felts specifically designed for hi hat clutches. Available in rubber or felt (pictured).

Hi Hat Drop Clutch

A drop clutch is designed for double bass drummers. It functions like a standard clutch, allowing the hi hat to be opened or closed, but it includes a drop lever that releases the clutch so the hi hat closes without holding the pedal down. When the pedal is depressed, the specially designed hook reattaches to the clutch and allows the hi hat to be pedal operated again. This eliminates the need to loosten the wingnut for double bass playing, and allows hands-free operation, so the drummer can concentrate on playing, not adjusting the hi hat.

Hi Hat Pull Rod

The pull rod is attached to the pedal, and the clutch attaches to the pull rod, to allow the hi hat to be opened or closed. If replacing a pull rod, measure the diameter and determine if the thread pitch is metric or standard.

Hi Hat Seat / Cup

The hi hat seat suspends the bottom cymbal and allows the cymbal to be tilted.

Hi Hat Seat Felt

Similar to standard cymbal felts, but much larger in diameter. This felt sits atop the hi hat seat and cusions the bottom hi hat cymbal.

Hi Hat Seat / Cup Washer

The seat or cup washer provides a stable base for the bottom hi hat cymbal as well as serves the purpose of allowing the bottom cymbal to be tilted via the adjustment screw in the cup. These are usually metal washers, but come in a variety of designs. Pictured is Pearl's cup washer that also serves as the hi hat cup felt.

Key Screws

Key screws are used in all sorts of drum hardware. Most commonly, they are used on pedals to secure U-Joints and beaters, but are also used on drum racks and many cymbal stands. Available in many sizes.

Pedal Stabilizers

Pedal stabilizers attach to the secondary pedal of double bass drum pedals to prevent the pedal from "walking."

Rubber Feet

Rubber feet insulate stands and drum thrones and provide cushion. Preventing vibrations is key especially on solid floors.

Wing Nuts

Wing nuts are used to secure cymbals to cymbal stands, along with many other parts of drum hardware. Typically, cymbal stand wing nuts are either 6mm or 8mm.

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